The Ganpati Diaries

Preparations:

Ganpati is the most anticipated event in Pune during the time I will be here. It’s essentially a week-long festival celebrating the god Ganesha, who's a Hindu god of new beginnings and removing obstacles (perfect for this trip, right?). He also has an elephant head, which is pretty awesome. And in Maharashtra  (the state I live in) he’s a HUGE deal, which means that the festival is going to be especially HUGE!

The city has been preparing for over a week. Colorful banners line the streets and in almost every corner of the city, there are decorated platforms where the Ganpatis will be displayed during the festival. Not to mention the drumming groups practicing all over the place at all hours of the evening.

Banners on my street

The mandals

The night before the festival started, preparations in my host family went into full force. Their shrine was altered with fruits and new rangoli designs. Also we had the Ganpati welcoming ceremony! Every year a household gets a new Ganesh idol that they welcome to their home in a ceremonial way. Uncle (my host dad) shouted the traditional words when he brought it home and Aunty (my host mom) poured water, coconut milk, salt, some red stuff (the kind you put on your forehead), and dry rice in the door way before entering with the god. He then carried Ganesha into every room of the house before placing him under an orange, silk scarf until the festival tomorrow.

I basically have no idea what to expect in regards to these next few days. Aunty told me a few simple things, but she just keeps saying “You will see.”

Day 1:

Today we woke up early and had a mini puja and aarti with the host family. Together a guruji and Sanjay dressed in ceremonial garb did some chanting, made offerings to Ganesh. The only part I participated in involved lots of clapping, flames and calls of Morya! Our family also had a more low-key puja in the evening when there was lots of extended family over.

The fam's shrine

Post-puja

The reason Ganpati might become my new favorite holiday, though, is the processions that are happening all over Pune. We saw 2, but heard a lot more echoing through the streets. There are different band troupes, most consisting of drummers, but there are also horn bands and cymbalists.

At the rear of all the processions is a Ganesh paraded along on a float. Each one is different. 

Not exactly sure what this is...

People!

But these processions so far are one of my favorite experiences! Everyone is dressed in their best traditional outfits. Even the children. One groups of women saw my roommate Arpita and I watching them dance to the drums, and then had us dance with them. The pre-teen girls were the one’s who initiated it, but it was the older women who seemed to be the most excited. One older woman took my hands and started to spin in a circle in a traditional Maharashtrian dance. I was pretty boss at that. Then another middle-aged woman whom we will call Happy Dancing Woman was so into dancing with us, even though no one else really was. Most people were just kind of staring at us laughing at with us. One women tried to get me to dance with her baby, but the little guy was not into being handed to a crazy white girl.

Happy Dancing Woman in action and my awkwardness

Later that night we heard fireworks going off. So naturally we ran outside to take a look. We didn’t find the fireworks (though they were most likely being set off somewhere really safe like a street intersection or someone’s back yard). But we did find another procession, drum corp, and excited dancers shouting Morya!

Day 2:

Today we had class and most of the city went back to work, so the celebrations were a little less exuberant. But one class had a scheduled field trip so there was lots of free time! Arpita and I went to the Mandai vegetable market area, which is the hub of the festival. There are two large, permanent temples plus one temporary one that were all elaborately decorated to the nines to worship Ganesh.

There was celebratory music blaring from street-side shops, vendors all over the place, and decorations that made even native Indians had to take out their cameras.

Ganpati Bappa Morya!

This is a TEMPORARY temple for Ganpati

 Once again TEMPORARY! 

Temple all decked out 

Coconuts sold to be offerings 

Ganpati then invaded Hindi class. There was a procession passing under our street and the drums were too much and our professor let us out early. Not complaining since that’s my last class of the day.

Day 3-4

Kids drumming in all corners of the city, including our next-door neighbor. The Ganpati Mandals are lit up at night when community pujas are held and music is played.

The mandals are so unique! One in Datawadi is shaped like a pirate ship.

Day 5

I thought today was going to be relatively normal. Until I was walking home from the café and this was happening on my street…

This whole group of people (the dancers and the band) loved the camera more than anyone I've ever met

And then later on I went to look at the Mandals lit up in my neighborhood and found and all teenage girls drum band!

Lesson of Ganpati: Expect the unexpected.

Days 6 -9

Still seeing people continuously come out the that Mandals, play drums in the middle of the street, and dance. Same old, same old.

My family’s celebration lasted only a day and a half so we don’t do much with that in the house.

Day 10- Procession Day

The final day of the Ganpati Festival is Pune’s answer to New Year’s Eve in Times Square. Except instead of Ryan Seacrest and paper hats, we have drums, a night-long dance party, red powder paint, and giant elephant-headed gods paraded around the city before being submerged into the river. And instead of standing still watching a ball drop, we dance and move through the streets. Quite eventful. Quite insane. 

Me and Arpita were smart enough to go explore the main hub of the festivities before it got packed like a massive game of human sardines. There, of course, was the constant drumming and rangoli. Except this time everything was elaborated to the extreme since it was the final day. We only wandered around for 2 hours before we decided that taking a nap was preferable to getting heat stroke.

Kids dancing to drums in my street's procession

Lil drummer boy

Follow the Rangoli Road!

Oh, hey cow

My favorite rangoli of the day

After the little siesta we wandered around some more. By this time more of the city had come out to shout Ganpati Bappa Morya! After lots of aimless walking, following every noise we thought sounded promising, we ran into some people from our program. I can’t believe that you can just randomly run into people you know at a crowded, city-wide festival! Eventually, we ended up at some other students' homestay. They live in the heart of the festivities and on top of that have a rooftop that overlooks the procession. One of their other roommates is in a different American study abroad program so we met a lot of students from there.

Like the Rose Parade.... except not really

This is THE Ganpati. This picture doesn't really show how HUGE it was

Red paint and pit stains- a good portrait of the day

View from the roof. The main procession is a little over on the main road

Drummers in the side streets. A dance party thus ensued

Around 8 things started getting crazy. And my camera conveniently died, sorry. Everyone and then some more was drawn to the center of the city like a magnetic force of festivities pulled them there. I have never seen anything like it! American holidays can’t even hold a candle to this. Not even the 4^th of July in Catonsville! The huge Ganeshas were coming down the street accompanied by the usual procession and drums, but once again everything was so much more over the top. Crowds of people were dancing, jumping up and down, and shouting in huge masses. Unfortunately, a majority of the revelers were men so we had to find some women to dance by so that we could feel just a little less awkward. We found a group of women. Can you guess who was in that group? Happy Dancing Woman!! Just like day 1, she dances enthusiastically with us while others looked on. She’s like the Alpha and the Omega to my Ganpati experience.

I wasn't able to get many picture of the night time insanity, but here's a few I stole:

Just envision this with techno music (photo cred: Lauren Cichock)

Not many women actually participated in the dancing, so these girls are boss (photo cred: Lauren Cichock)

Cah-ray-zee!  (photo cred: Jen Attig)

Getting back home was interesting. To get through the crowd, you had to employ a mixture of dancing and shoving. Eventually, we made it back in one piece.

I can’t believe Ganpati is over. I refuse to accept it. The drumming will always be echoing through my head, even when I get back to the states. 

Taking it all down. Sad :(

To all my friends and family back home: if I suddenly shout “Ganpati Bappa” out loud, don’t be alarmed, just make me happy and reply “Morya!”